Silver jewelry is an important part of Miao culture, and the designs are beautiful songs written in silver. The Miao have an epic named “Song of Gold and Silver.” It’s about the origin of metals and the forging of heavenly bodies. In the song, the moon is made of silver. In Miao culture, silver symbolizes light, the moon, fertility, and protection against evil. It is believed to drive out evil spirits, prevent natural disasters, and to bring good fortune. Silver is also a symbol of wealth and prosperity. No wonder silver is regarded as the greatest of all metals and is a Miao family’s most prized possession!
The Miao (pronounced mee·au) people live mostly in the Guizhou province of China, although many live in Laos, Vietnam, Thailand and the United States. They are also known as the Hmong (pronounced muhng) people. They use costumes, songs, festivals and rituals to pass on their culture since traditionally they didn’t have a written language.
Miao people use textiles, clothing, and jewelry as expressions of identity. This is especially true at community events where people wear elaborate, embroidered costumes and silver jewelry. Older women and men usually wear simple, heavy silver necklaces. Intricate jewelry is usually for young women. Designs on the garments and silver jewelry are based on Miao history and beliefs. Communities have their own distinctive decorative techniques and patterns.
Important events where jewelry is worn include weddings, funerals, and the annual Sister’s Meal Festival. The Sister’s Meal Festival takes place in the spring and it is a time of courtship for young women and men. Many families believe their daughters cannot get married without silver jewelry, and they begin saving to buy it shortly after the girl is born. Families spare no expense, buying pieces as they are able. A full outfit of a headdress, hair combs, earrings, necklaces, breastplates, bracelets, rings, and ornaments can weigh over thirty pounds.
Traditionally, men are the silversmiths in Miao culture. Melted silver coins were the historic source of metal for the jewelry. The silversmiths create jewelry by casting, repousse, forging, engraving, knitting, coiling, and cutting silver. Geometric, plant, and animal designs are used. Flowers, symbols of long life and prosperity, and auspicious animals such as birds, frogs, fish, phoenix, and dragons are popular motifs.
Silver ingots are shaped into wire, strips, or sheets. The wire is used as solder, or to make small decorations. Silver sheets are hammered into hand carved metal or stone molds to create embossed designs. The silversmith adds decorations to the embossed sheets by stamping and engraving more details. When the sheet decorations are finished, the pieces are soldered together using silver wire, followed by cooling in a quench bath, and cleaning in an acid bath (pickling).
Necklaces and crowns are the most complicated pieces for a silversmith to make because they have many small parts. The simplest necklace design is a chain link necklace made by connecting peanut-shaped rings. This design is usually worn by older women.
Intricate necklace designs are worn by young women. The designs include silver plates, chains, and bells. A necklace is sometimes called a “moon plate” because it is shaped like a crescent moon.
Common design motifs for crowns are:
– a magpie stepping on plum
– a golden pheasant calling out
– a peacock spreading its tail
– and a male and female phoenix perched together.
These motifs vary in appearance from region to region. There are three types of crown. The first kind is a hat completely covered with silver flowers, birds, animals, bells, and tassels. Twelve silver feathers hang behind the hat and reach to the woman’s waist. This type is popular in the Huangping area of Guizhou province.
The second kind of crown is usually seen in Leishan, Guizhou province. The crown is open at the top and is made from a 3-inch wide band of silver with three motifs. The first motif at the top of the band features 29 silver lotus flowers. The second motif in the center of the band has warriors riding horses. At the bottom of the band, silver cones dangle from the edge.
A third type of crown, with a more vertical design, is worn by Miao Hmong women in Shidong area of Guizhou.
Woman Wearing Chain Link Necklaces
In some Miao villages, silver horns are the most important adornment on a crown. They vary in thickness and are meant to look like the horns of a bull. Typically, each horn is about 20 – 27 inches long! Patterns are hammered into them, such as phoenixes or dragons holding pearls. Sometimes the horns are decorated with feathers or tassels. The horns symbolize a connection with the Chiyou ancestor, one of the three legendary founders of China. The horns represent luck and heroism, ensuring safety and prosperity.
There are efforts to preserve the Miao’s cultural heritage by 3-D imaging their jewelry. The hope is that young artists will use this technology to produce new works.